Saturday, March 22, 2008


I've never really gotten into the big wave fever thats been going on over the last several years. Maybe I'm just not a charger myself so I havent developed a huge interest in it. Kind of like watching Nascar, if you're not there or if you havent done it yourself you just can't get into it. (not to insult big wave riders by comparing them to nascar). Its pretty amazing to see the progression though, airs off boils in the wave face, Shane Dorians layback in a quadruple-overhead Teahupoo freight train barrell. For a long time surffers just survived waves like these, now they're toying with them.

One thing that kinda freaks me out, Ian Walshs wave, whos that screaming in the background? Kinda scary, like Pat O' in Endless Summer 2, only on crack. Kinda scary.

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