Monday, December 24, 2007

Merry Christmas!

Merry Christmas from Rasta and everyone else, wait, thats just me, at everyone surfs.

Friday, December 21, 2007

My Wave

A top ten Youtube video for me. Click here

For some reason this makes me think of Doc from Surf In Oregon

Happy Hollow Days

Originaly seen on 70percent

I used to be an artist...

I was wondering through my old photobucket account and found some of my college artwork. There was a time I was going to be an artist/designer.

Monday, December 17, 2007

My Current Top 3

Taken from 70Percent, via Pinniped....

(Surf) Web Places to Check Every Day
1) Surfy Surfy
2) 7oPercent
3) Wetsand

Top 3 Surf tools
1) 6'2" Pavel Speeddialer
2) '69" Ukelele Drifter
3) 7'2" Harbor 70's gun

Places I wish were my local shop
1) Mollusk
2) The Greenroom
3) Wetsand

Things to watch on-line right now
1) Surfline North Shore Slideshows
2) YouTube
3) Joe Cartoon

Surf films I can’t Wait to see
1) Morning of the Earth
2) Displacement
3) Singlefin Yellow
4) Whatever Patagonia is going to do in the future.....Please?

People I would love have shape me a board
1) Danny Hess
2) Rich Pavel (again)
3) Malcom Campbell
4) Grain

Surfers Artisist of inspiration
1) Tyler Warren
2) Pinniped
3) Joe Curren

Thursday, December 13, 2007


Not much surf action for me lately, but my rockin' wife got us tickets to the Alice in Chains and Velvet Revolver concert in LA last night! Loud fun.

Alice in Chains

Slash Rockin'
Scott Wyland on the megaphone
Velvet Revolver

and a calmer, gentler VR

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

Tom Wegener

Originally seen on the brownfish This is real surfing, both the action and the lifestyle. I admire Tom for going from a LA lawyer to surfboard builder. So many people get caught up in life and arent willing to make sacrifices financially to improve the quality of the life they're living.

Wednesday, December 5, 2007

Po-Po ruined my surf!

My self-hating thing to do when the surf is good is to pull off the freeway at Trestles when I'm on my way into work. I sit, take a pic or two, and in general envy everyone in the water and imagine how I would have surfed their last wave.

Today there's a highway patrolman sitting there, I figure its the shoulder and theres no biggie just taking a quick look. He thought otherwise and got on his loudspeaker "Either move now, or get a ticket!" So much for my non-session! (pic stolen from surfline photo gallery)

Thursday, November 29, 2007

San O Style

The hair makes the style. This is a couple days back when I took my longboard out. Ripples are no match for 9'6" of foam!

Wednesday, November 21, 2007

North Shore

Oh to be on the North Shore of Hawaii right now. While we're getting up early and rushing to work, there's people strolling around in sunlit paradise in boardshorts and flipflops (slippahs). I went to the Big Island with my wife and her family last summer and refused to wear anything else, even though the sun never came out the entire week we were there.

Friday, November 16, 2007

Anther legend I never knew

Joseph Corbett "Corb" Donohue, Jr. passed to his "great reward" with his family by his side on October 5, 2007, after a 2-year battle with lymphoma. Corb was born in New York City on February 10, 1941, to Mary and Joseph Corbett Donohue, Sr. The family eventually moved to California and found their way to Santa Monica Canyon by the time Corb was 6 years old. He discovered surfing .......
I'll be 100% honest. I didn't know anything about mr. Donohue until I read this just now. I surf, I'm passionate about surfing, I may have even said hello to him in the water at San-O in the past, but I'm far from being entrenched in the upper echelons of Southern California surf culture. It seems discouraging that so many of the people that are our greatest living assets as surfers are dwindling. These are the pioneers that made what we all take for granted possible and like the rest of the 99% of the surfing community, I know nothing about them. Sure I read the Surfers Journal religiously, I've memorized Endless Summer and whatever other classic movies I can get my hands on, but I've never personally experienced what originaly made surfing the primal, man-with-nature experience that is just pre-packaged and fed to us now.
Very few of my generation/class of surfers really know, much less care about the past. We don't even want to imagine surfing without a wetsuit or leash (I swear I don't wear a rope when I'm on my longboard, unless its kinda big). What these surfers, Doc Ball, Corb, Velzy experienced is something incredible that is really impossible for us now. We're turning a generational corner in the surf industry, I almost wish it was making a U-turn, just so I could experience a little of what the pioneers got to.

Thursday, November 15, 2007

Wetsand Surf Shop

Wetsand opened their retail store in Ventura. Now they need one a little further south.

Not a whole lot going on

I went out Monday morning and got a few fun, choppy waves at San-O. I actually took my longboard out this time. I havent ridden it in months, ever since I got my fish. Its amazing how easy it is to catch waves on now! I've completely forgotten how to walk though.

Its kinda frustrating to be driving to work and seeing people with surfboards everywhere and I'm getting out once or twice a week. I just have to remind myself that maybe thats what they think of me on the days I'm heading to the beach and they're going to work......

Friday, November 9, 2007

Surf Dads

Went to a popular spot in San Clemente this morning. There were fun waves had by all, I'm starting to figure out my fish. God bless south swell lefts!
I've never really seen it before, soccer moms have been replaced by surf dads. Looks like everyone wants to groom their kids to be the next AI or Slater. I saw one dad with a notepad, camera, and video camera! Surfing isn't really the romaticized easy-going lifestyle sport it used to be.

Wednesday, November 7, 2007

Chariot de la surf

My ride to the waves. The Pavel fits like a glove.

A little clip heading out for dawn patrol.

Saturday, November 3, 2007

Surfs Up!

For all you who haven't seen this movie yet, watch it! This is the best surf movie ever made. Better than North Shore and Big Wednesday out together! I'll probably have it memorized soon. Chicken Joe's the man.

Friday, November 2, 2007

Mindsurfing for the 9-5 Part 5

Just imagine you just came in after a good surf, relaxing on the beach with a beer and friends...

This actually looks a little scary

Thursday, November 1, 2007

Watch me shred!

Shreddin!!!!! This is a cool thing on photobucket where you can make yourself.

Monday, October 29, 2007

Mindsurfing for the 9-5 Part 4

Black n' White Pipe
Black n' White Blacks

Saturday, October 27, 2007

Mindsurfing for the 9-5 Part 3

Back to the mindsurfing! Its the last few days of the month so its time to grind out some sales at work.

Peaky Beach-Breaky goodness


Friday, October 26, 2007

Missed it

I pretty much missed it this last week. I got out for a while Sunday and Tuesday, but no barrels. Picture stolen from here.

Tuesday, October 23, 2007

SoCal Burning and Firing

Its kinda hard to be as stoked about conditions like this....
When its caused the the same conditions causing this.

Monday, October 22, 2007


Only two? Actually one more in the bed and the Pavel in the Jeep in front

One guy, five boards, excelent priorities

Fire Everywhere

Another fire (12 now?) started up this morning in San Marcos.
The smoke going out to sea.

Stolen Steve Lis Fish

This beautiful and rare original Steve Lis Fish was stolen from a fellow surfblogger Born to Lose. Click here to find out more.

Sunday, October 21, 2007

No Mindsurfing Today!

Made it out to Oceanside today. I got a call this morning from a friend telling me it was going off. My rockin wife suggested we go down and I surf for a bit. It was a 1-3 feet overhead and beautiful! I didn't do much since I was on my much-neglected shortboard, not nearly as much volume as I'm used to!

Clean peaky fun
I did take a few on the head, but it wasn't to bad

I live up in Foothill Ranch, about 5 miles away (at this point) from the fires. We were going to church until we saw huge brushfires only a couple hundred feet off the toll road. Our prayers go out to all the people who've lost their homes.

This is only about 4 miles from our house

Saturday, October 20, 2007

Mindsurfing for the 9-5 Part 2

The long walk in, or out

If only that that yellow house on the right was mine....

Friday, October 19, 2007

Mindsurfing for the 9-5 Part 1

Every average joe surfer needs to keep his spirits up while he's sitting at his desk for 8+ hours. I've done my share of mindsurfing in pictures from various sources. Its a bit of an escape to insert yourself into a great photo. These pictures are just a small part of several years of browsing misc. online surf mags, blogs, and websites....

"Yeah, I got barreled at work today."

"The crowd on shore was cheering me on..."

Tuesday, October 16, 2007

Help Midget

Well-known shaper, ASP judge & local surfing icon Midget Smith was recently diagnosed with cancer and is currently undergoing chemotherapy. Midget beat the disease 22 years ago & has been unable to obtain medical insurance since. With his ongoing treatments the medical bills are stacking up. Midget has touched the lives of many in & out of the water and this is our chance to give a little something back.

On October 27th there will be a benefit party at Duke’s Grill located at 204 S. El Camino Real in San Clemente............

See the rest here.

Sunday, October 14, 2007

Sacred Craft

Sacred Craft surfboard expo! This was an amazing collection of surf-craft from Grain Surfboards to Lost's Placebo pop-outs. It was really cool to see how crowded the Grain booth was, since I've been following that company for a couple years. Interest in their boards just gets bigger and bigger. Hopefully one day soon I'll be able to get one or two (or three). Danny Hess' booth was equally impressive. This was the first time I've seen his boards in person and was very impressed, Which isn't saying much since I'm such a novice, but hey, I liked them! The craftsmanship is incredible. From Robert August to Patterson, Patagonis to EZ Foam, everything shaper-related was there to drool over. Next year I'm going to set aside more time...

The Grain booth was a crowd favorite

My beautiful Hawaiian princess and her brother came along. I was loving the Tyler Warren art on this board.


The Biofoam booth was neat

Rich Harbour Passing out surf-wisdom

One of my favorites, Patagonia

My personal muse, Wilbur Kookmeyer

Danny Hess' boards really impressed me. Now I've got another board on my wish list!