Small, glassey, and fun looking this morning while I was driving to work. Didn't get out though. Maybe tomorrow morning if the wind doesn't blow everything out. The Southern California grind doesn't lend itself to paddling out on a daily basis. At least not when you're paying a mortage with a 100% commission job. I can't complain though. I have a good life, I just need to work a little harder now so I can play a little harder later. I don't want to have to put in this kind of hours when rugrats come along in the future.
Coming from surfing daily and working at surf shops for years, I kinda feel like a kook now. I'm that guy in the suit going to work where at one time I'd be "sick" and taking the day off when the surf was good. Its still feels weird when its firing and I drive by to work without a second thought, well maybe a second thought, and a third, but I do end up at work. Yeah, I'm a surfer.....
Monday, October 8, 2007
Work...
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment