Monday, December 17, 2007

My Current Top 3

Taken from 70Percent, via Pinniped....


(Surf) Web Places to Check Every Day
1) Surfy Surfy
2) 7oPercent
3) Wetsand

Top 3 Surf tools
1) 6'2" Pavel Speeddialer
2) '69" Ukelele Drifter
3) 7'2" Harbor 70's gun

Places I wish were my local shop
1) Mollusk
2) The Greenroom
3) Wetsand

Things to watch on-line right now
1) Surfline North Shore Slideshows
2) YouTube
3) Joe Cartoon

Surf films I can’t Wait to see
1) Morning of the Earth
2) Displacement
3) Singlefin Yellow
4) Whatever Patagonia is going to do in the future.....Please?

People I would love have shape me a board
1) Danny Hess
2) Rich Pavel (again)
3) Malcom Campbell
4) Grain


Surfers Artisist of inspiration
1) Tyler Warren
2) Pinniped
3) Joe Curren

Thursday, December 13, 2007

Concert

Not much surf action for me lately, but my rockin' wife got us tickets to the Alice in Chains and Velvet Revolver concert in LA last night! Loud fun.


Alice in Chains

Slash Rockin'
Scott Wyland on the megaphone
Velvet Revolver

and a calmer, gentler VR

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

Tom Wegener


Originally seen on the brownfish This is real surfing, both the action and the lifestyle. I admire Tom for going from a LA lawyer to surfboard builder. So many people get caught up in life and arent willing to make sacrifices financially to improve the quality of the life they're living.

Wednesday, December 5, 2007

Po-Po ruined my surf!

My self-hating thing to do when the surf is good is to pull off the freeway at Trestles when I'm on my way into work. I sit, take a pic or two, and in general envy everyone in the water and imagine how I would have surfed their last wave.

Today there's a highway patrolman sitting there, I figure its the shoulder and theres no biggie just taking a quick look. He thought otherwise and got on his loudspeaker "Either move now, or get a ticket!" So much for my non-session! (pic stolen from surfline photo gallery)

Thursday, November 29, 2007

San O Style

The hair makes the style. This is a couple days back when I took my longboard out. Ripples are no match for 9'6" of foam!

Wednesday, November 21, 2007

North Shore

Oh to be on the North Shore of Hawaii right now. While we're getting up early and rushing to work, there's people strolling around in sunlit paradise in boardshorts and flipflops (slippahs). I went to the Big Island with my wife and her family last summer and refused to wear anything else, even though the sun never came out the entire week we were there.

Friday, November 16, 2007

Anther legend I never knew


Joseph Corbett "Corb" Donohue, Jr. passed to his "great reward" with his family by his side on October 5, 2007, after a 2-year battle with lymphoma. Corb was born in New York City on February 10, 1941, to Mary and Joseph Corbett Donohue, Sr. The family eventually moved to California and found their way to Santa Monica Canyon by the time Corb was 6 years old. He discovered surfing ....... http://www.surfline.com/surfnews/article.cfm?id=12327
I'll be 100% honest. I didn't know anything about mr. Donohue until I read this just now. I surf, I'm passionate about surfing, I may have even said hello to him in the water at San-O in the past, but I'm far from being entrenched in the upper echelons of Southern California surf culture. It seems discouraging that so many of the people that are our greatest living assets as surfers are dwindling. These are the pioneers that made what we all take for granted possible and like the rest of the 99% of the surfing community, I know nothing about them. Sure I read the Surfers Journal religiously, I've memorized Endless Summer and whatever other classic movies I can get my hands on, but I've never personally experienced what originaly made surfing the primal, man-with-nature experience that is just pre-packaged and fed to us now.
Very few of my generation/class of surfers really know, much less care about the past. We don't even want to imagine surfing without a wetsuit or leash (I swear I don't wear a rope when I'm on my longboard, unless its kinda big). What these surfers, Doc Ball, Corb, Velzy experienced is something incredible that is really impossible for us now. We're turning a generational corner in the surf industry, I almost wish it was making a U-turn, just so I could experience a little of what the pioneers got to.