San-O' Sunday

The Governator Strikes again

Our governor has announced his support of the 241 toll road extension through San Onofre State Park. This coming right behind his plan to close many other state parks. I'm not so much an environmentalist as I am a conservationist, this is a shame. I would be one of the main benefactors of the toll road extension, I live right where the current 241 ends and drive to Carlsbad every day for work, it would save me about 20 minutes every day, and about $5 in gas every day. I almost never have a situation with traffic, why do we need another toll road?

San O Style

The hair makes the style. This is a couple days back when I took my longboard out. Ripples are no match for 9'6" of foam!

Anther legend I never knew

Joseph Corbett "Corb" Donohue, Jr. passed to his "great reward" with his family by his side on October 5, 2007, after a 2-year battle with lymphoma. Corb was born in New York City on February 10, 1941, to Mary and Joseph Corbett Donohue, Sr. The family eventually moved to California and found their way to Santa Monica Canyon by the time Corb was 6 years old. He discovered surfing ....... http://www.surfline.com/surfnews/article.cfm?id=12327

I'll be 100% honest. I didn't know anything about mr. Donohue until I read this just now. I surf, I'm passionate about surfing, I may have even said hello to him in the water at San-O in the past, but I'm far from being entrenched in the upper echelons of Southern California surf culture. It seems discouraging that so many of the people that are our greatest living assets as surfers are dwindling. These are the pioneers that made what we all take for granted possible and like the rest of the 99% of the surfing community, I know nothing about them. Sure I read the Surfers Journal religiously, I've memorized Endless Summer and whatever other classic movies I can get my hands on, but I've never personally experienced what originaly made surfing the primal, man-with-nature experience that is just pre-packaged and fed to us now.

Very few of my generation/class of surfers really know, much less care about the past. We don't even want to imagine surfing without a wetsuit or leash (I swear I don't wear a rope when I'm on my longboard, unless its kinda big). What these surfers, Doc Ball, Corb, Velzy experienced is something incredible that is really impossible for us now. We're turning a generational corner in the surf industry, I almost wish it was making a U-turn, just so I could experience a little of what the pioneers got to.

Not a whole lot going on

I went out Monday morning and got a few fun, choppy waves at San-O. I actually took my longboard out this time. I havent ridden it in months, ever since I got my fish. Its amazing how easy it is to catch waves on now! I've completely forgotten how to walk though.

Its kinda frustrating to be driving to work and seeing people with surfboards everywhere and I'm getting out once or twice a week. I just have to remind myself that maybe thats what they think of me on the days I'm heading to the beach and they're going to work......

San-O

Even with its normal crowds, San Onofre is one of my favorite spots. I never go on weekends though. Early-morning weekday trips are the best. Relativly small crowds even when its perfect. Its easy to sit a little away from the main peak and pick off some fun lefts. A mellow vibe and mellow waves makes the spot I'll choose over the best wave with crowds of people any day of the week.