San O Style

The hair makes the style. This is a couple days back when I took my longboard out. Ripples are no match for 9'6" of foam!

North Shore

Oh to be on the North Shore of Hawaii right now. While we're getting up early and rushing to work, there's people strolling around in sunlit paradise in boardshorts and flipflops (slippahs). I went to the Big Island with my wife and her family last summer and refused to wear anything else, even though the sun never came out the entire week we were there.

Anther legend I never knew

Joseph Corbett "Corb" Donohue, Jr. passed to his "great reward" with his family by his side on October 5, 2007, after a 2-year battle with lymphoma. Corb was born in New York City on February 10, 1941, to Mary and Joseph Corbett Donohue, Sr. The family eventually moved to California and found their way to Santa Monica Canyon by the time Corb was 6 years old. He discovered surfing ....... http://www.surfline.com/surfnews/article.cfm?id=12327

I'll be 100% honest. I didn't know anything about mr. Donohue until I read this just now. I surf, I'm passionate about surfing, I may have even said hello to him in the water at San-O in the past, but I'm far from being entrenched in the upper echelons of Southern California surf culture. It seems discouraging that so many of the people that are our greatest living assets as surfers are dwindling. These are the pioneers that made what we all take for granted possible and like the rest of the 99% of the surfing community, I know nothing about them. Sure I read the Surfers Journal religiously, I've memorized Endless Summer and whatever other classic movies I can get my hands on, but I've never personally experienced what originaly made surfing the primal, man-with-nature experience that is just pre-packaged and fed to us now.

Very few of my generation/class of surfers really know, much less care about the past. We don't even want to imagine surfing without a wetsuit or leash (I swear I don't wear a rope when I'm on my longboard, unless its kinda big). What these surfers, Doc Ball, Corb, Velzy experienced is something incredible that is really impossible for us now. We're turning a generational corner in the surf industry, I almost wish it was making a U-turn, just so I could experience a little of what the pioneers got to.

Wetsand Surf Shop

Wetsand opened their retail store in Ventura. Now they need one a little further south.

Not a whole lot going on

I went out Monday morning and got a few fun, choppy waves at San-O. I actually took my longboard out this time. I havent ridden it in months, ever since I got my fish. Its amazing how easy it is to catch waves on now! I've completely forgotten how to walk though.

Its kinda frustrating to be driving to work and seeing people with surfboards everywhere and I'm getting out once or twice a week. I just have to remind myself that maybe thats what they think of me on the days I'm heading to the beach and they're going to work......

Surf Dads

Went to a popular spot in San Clemente this morning. There were fun waves had by all, I'm starting to figure out my fish. God bless south swell lefts!
I've never really seen it before, soccer moms have been replaced by surf dads. Looks like everyone wants to groom their kids to be the next AI or Slater. I saw one dad with a notepad, camera, and video camera! Surfing isn't really the romaticized easy-going lifestyle sport it used to be.

Chariot de la surf

My ride to the waves. The Pavel fits like a glove.

A little clip heading out for dawn patrol.

Surfs Up!

For all you who haven't seen this movie yet, watch it! This is the best surf movie ever made. Better than North Shore and Big Wednesday out together! I'll probably have it memorized soon. Chicken Joe's the man.

Mindsurfing for the 9-5 Part 5

Just imagine you just came in after a good surf, relaxing on the beach with a beer and friends...

This actually looks a little scary

Watch me shred!

Shreddin!!!!! This is a cool thing on photobucket where you can make yourself.