Future-Surfer

2000!

I'm over 2000 hits! Thanks to everyone who finds what I have to say worthwhile. There aare a ton of great surf blogs out there so its nice to be getting some traffic. Here's a list of my favorite bloggers that are much better than me!

SurfySurfy the original surf blog/drool inducer

Shakas and Singlefins the pic on this post is from him

70percent Just good stuff

Born to Lose surfing/shaping/family

Brownfish garage shaper/dad/surfer

KYScoast is able to use words when most of us need a picture

Headhighglassy a shaper with a story behind each board

Check out all the destinations to your right!

XXL

I've never really gotten into the big wave fever thats been going on over the last several years. Maybe I'm just not a charger myself so I havent developed a huge interest in it. Kind of like watching Nascar, if you're not there or if you havent done it yourself you just can't get into it. (not to insult big wave riders by comparing them to nascar). Its pretty amazing to see the progression though, airs off boils in the wave face, Shane Dorians layback in a quadruple-overhead Teahupoo freight train barrell. For a long time surffers just survived waves like these, now they're toying with them.

One thing that kinda freaks me out, Ian Walshs wave, whos that screaming in the background? Kinda scary, like Pat O' in Endless Summer 2, only on crack. Kinda scary.

Chuck Lorre #40

Dave

A couple of my wifey's and my favorite tv shows are Two & a half Men, and the Big Bang Theory. They're created by Chuck Lorre (who also did Dharma & Greg and others) At the end of every episode there's a "vanity card" just random musings and stuff. Since we got the greatest invention since the internet (Tivo) we can pause it and read the card. The one last night was great so I looked it up on his website...

Once upon a time there was a wave. The name of the wave was, no surprise, Dave. Dave the wave. Dave was a big, powerful wave. His massive blue body surged across the surface of the ocean with great majesty and deceptive speed. Oh yes, Dave was quite a wave. From the moment he rose up from the ocean he felt special. He felt invincible. Ferocious storms battered him with wind and rain, great ships sliced through his very heart, and yet he rolled on. It was not for him to stop and consider the other waves. To stop was to die. Waves have to keep moving... or else. But then one day Dave saw a strange darkness on the horizon and, for the first time in his life, felt fear. What could it be? Was it connected to the laughing creature sliding across his face on a piece of wood? But before he could make sense of it all, he crashed down into the darkness. For a brief moment he felt a weird, splashing feeling, then oblivion. Dave was no more. He was now a part of the sea. And as we all know, the sea loves to make waves.

Back and badder than ever! (Warning Rant)

Yeah! Ok, maybe not badder than Michael Jackson (back in the day) but back nonetheless. Its been a rough couple months but I finally got out in the water yesterday. Longboarding to get my paddling muscles used to this strange motion they can't seem to remember. Caught a few fun waves at San-O and didn't look like a complete idiot so I'll call it a succesful session.

One thing did get me in a big way though. I was pulling out of the parking lot and a big red Dodge truck pulled out behind me. I made sure to move a little faster than normal coming out of the dirt where the bumps are, my car doesnt handle them well so I usually go really slow. I figured it'd be nice of me to make sure I didn't hold up the fellow surfer in the big red Dodge truck with San Onofre Surf Club license frames. Why am I going into such detail with describing his truck? Thats the only way I know him, and if any folks out there know who I'm talking about you can mention this post to him. Why do I care? He followed me out the the freeway as he was going up towards Orange County also. We barely get into traffic, he sticks his hand out of the window, cuts me off, and then for my troubles flips me off and speeds away! I've never used this blog to rant about anything or anyone, but this really bothered me.

You, mister big red Dodge dually with SanO surf club license plate frames, are everything thats wrong with surfing. Anytime, especially after I've been out in the water and I have a board sticking out the back of my car, make a point to be polite to my fellow wave-riders. Even if its a simple nod as you drive by. I moved here from North Carolina, where if you surf, snowboard, or skateboard theres an inherant comraderie among strangers becuase its a small community. Even when I moved to California, I've always expected surfers to treat one another with respect beyond that of normal politeness, as brothers and sisters who have the same values of common curtesy. Mr Red Dodge truck is an example of how mass-market lifestyle surfers have had a corrupting influence on our past-time. The lack of respect for someone who just pulled out of the same surf break as you is pretty low. Almost spoiled my session, almost.

There, I'm finished with my rant. Sorry for all innocents that had to put up with it. I know its pretty bad to have my first post after being gone so long have such a negative ring to it. And to Mr big red Dodge truck with SanO surf club license plate frames, please feel free to comment. Maybe you just have a bad habit of gesturing with your middle finger and that wasn't aimed at me. Let me know, I'm not to proud to retract my statement if your not to proud to comment.

Respect

Its been a while

Its been a while since I was able to post. Its been a rough time lately between work and there being a death in the family. There's a light at the end of the tunnel though so I hope to be back posting soon! Thanks for sticking with it.

Danny

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