Chuck Lorre #40

Dave

A couple of my wifey's and my favorite tv shows are Two & a half Men, and the Big Bang Theory. They're created by Chuck Lorre (who also did Dharma & Greg and others) At the end of every episode there's a "vanity card" just random musings and stuff. Since we got the greatest invention since the internet (Tivo) we can pause it and read the card. The one last night was great so I looked it up on his website...

Once upon a time there was a wave. The name of the wave was, no surprise, Dave. Dave the wave. Dave was a big, powerful wave. His massive blue body surged across the surface of the ocean with great majesty and deceptive speed. Oh yes, Dave was quite a wave. From the moment he rose up from the ocean he felt special. He felt invincible. Ferocious storms battered him with wind and rain, great ships sliced through his very heart, and yet he rolled on. It was not for him to stop and consider the other waves. To stop was to die. Waves have to keep moving... or else. But then one day Dave saw a strange darkness on the horizon and, for the first time in his life, felt fear. What could it be? Was it connected to the laughing creature sliding across his face on a piece of wood? But before he could make sense of it all, he crashed down into the darkness. For a brief moment he felt a weird, splashing feeling, then oblivion. Dave was no more. He was now a part of the sea. And as we all know, the sea loves to make waves.

Back and badder than ever! (Warning Rant)

Yeah! Ok, maybe not badder than Michael Jackson (back in the day) but back nonetheless. Its been a rough couple months but I finally got out in the water yesterday. Longboarding to get my paddling muscles used to this strange motion they can't seem to remember. Caught a few fun waves at San-O and didn't look like a complete idiot so I'll call it a succesful session.

One thing did get me in a big way though. I was pulling out of the parking lot and a big red Dodge truck pulled out behind me. I made sure to move a little faster than normal coming out of the dirt where the bumps are, my car doesnt handle them well so I usually go really slow. I figured it'd be nice of me to make sure I didn't hold up the fellow surfer in the big red Dodge truck with San Onofre Surf Club license frames. Why am I going into such detail with describing his truck? Thats the only way I know him, and if any folks out there know who I'm talking about you can mention this post to him. Why do I care? He followed me out the the freeway as he was going up towards Orange County also. We barely get into traffic, he sticks his hand out of the window, cuts me off, and then for my troubles flips me off and speeds away! I've never used this blog to rant about anything or anyone, but this really bothered me.

You, mister big red Dodge dually with SanO surf club license plate frames, are everything thats wrong with surfing. Anytime, especially after I've been out in the water and I have a board sticking out the back of my car, make a point to be polite to my fellow wave-riders. Even if its a simple nod as you drive by. I moved here from North Carolina, where if you surf, snowboard, or skateboard theres an inherant comraderie among strangers becuase its a small community. Even when I moved to California, I've always expected surfers to treat one another with respect beyond that of normal politeness, as brothers and sisters who have the same values of common curtesy. Mr Red Dodge truck is an example of how mass-market lifestyle surfers have had a corrupting influence on our past-time. The lack of respect for someone who just pulled out of the same surf break as you is pretty low. Almost spoiled my session, almost.

There, I'm finished with my rant. Sorry for all innocents that had to put up with it. I know its pretty bad to have my first post after being gone so long have such a negative ring to it. And to Mr big red Dodge truck with SanO surf club license plate frames, please feel free to comment. Maybe you just have a bad habit of gesturing with your middle finger and that wasn't aimed at me. Let me know, I'm not to proud to retract my statement if your not to proud to comment.

Respect

Its been a while

Its been a while since I was able to post. Its been a rough time lately between work and there being a death in the family. There's a light at the end of the tunnel though so I hope to be back posting soon! Thanks for sticking with it.

Danny

Vote!

I'm going to be a Dad!

Yep! My Beautiful wife surprised me this weekend standing under a ceiling full of blue and pink ballooons! We're going to have a beautiful hawaiian/native american future soul-surfer around Oct 1st!

Real Waterman

Story here, originally from wetsand.

The term "Waterman" is really getting thrown around a lot lately, especially in non-establishment surf mags like Water and Surfers Journal. There's a few real waterman in the surfing world, Joe Bark is real, several Hawaiians, Laird Hamilton would have to be legit in spite of his helping start the SUP craze. How many surfers do we know that wouldn't think twice about reaching into a 9'+ mako shark to help pull a guys leg out?

I'm sure most of you have watched shows like "Deadliest Catch". When I see that and stories like this, it gives me a whole new meaning of what a true waterman is. We normally think of someone who surfs, tows, and paddles. What about the men and women who's lives are 100% in tune with the ocean, both physically, emotionally, and economically? Laird might reach into a sharks mouth to save someone else, but would he jump in a big boat and go haul in crab pots in sub-zero temperatures and 40ft swells?

Its Been a Long Time...

I haven't been in the water in weeks, which really struck home when I took a quick detour past the beach on my way to work. Some lucky guy pulling into a perfect little head-high barrel. Its slow season at work, which in sales means you work twice as much and twice as hard for the same results. One more month and business will start picking up! I hope the waves stay good.

One a brighter note, my job does lead to meeting some cool people. I was lucky to be able to help out a couple good guys last week, here some picks of them from Reef's website.