Everyone Surfs

Another Project-The Outdoor Parent

2009-04-15T17:49:00.000-07:00

I am happy to announce the launch on a new website that I have the pleasure to be involved in in a small way. The Outdoor Parent was the idea of Fitz Cahall of the Dirtbag Diaries. If you're a parent, considering being one, or know someone who is one, check it out!

The Outdoor Parent is a collection of surfers, climbers and skiers who have embarked the greatest adventure -- parenthood -- and lived to tell about it. Stories, perspective and reflections on parenting, children and the outdoor lifestyle.

I'm going to be a contributing writer,a long with plenty of more qualified folks to make up for me being there, so take a look!

New Blog

2009-02-24T07:55:00.000-08:00

Just a note in spite of Everyone Surfs' dormant status. I've started a new site designed to help people have fun buying cars again. Buying a car has become something people dread, and as a car salesman in my 7th year, I think that it should be easy and fun.

The Site is www.Salesman411.com. Right now its just in Blog form, but I'll be adding some more features on down the road. Please check it out, and if anyone you know is looking for a car, send them over. I won't be advertising myself on the site, it is a resource that will help make buying a car fun again (I hope).

Check it out, let me know what you think!

Fin (for now)

2009-01-12T10:26:00.001-08:00

As you can see the posting has petered off as of late. Between family with my newborn son, work, side work trying to start up a new business, surf-blogging time/surf-inspiration has suffered, especially due to not as much time in the water, and a shift in my everyday priorities. With all that being said this, at least for the forseable future, will be my last post on Everyonesurfs.

I have started a new blog which will be updated regularly, as my inspiration is coming not just from surfing, but the outdoor life as a whole, fueled by the desire to raise my son (Levi) with a love for all things outdoors, surfing, snowboarding, hiking, all of it. It is called the Dirtbag Dad Diaries (DDD). I'm not abandoning surf-blogging so much as expanding my horizons into outdoor activity and fatherhood as a whole. My primary focus is and will stay on the ocean and surfing, but I want to expand my focus to the bigger picture. I hope you all check out the new site from time to time, its been fun here at Everyonesurfs.

I'd like to extend a special invitation to all the fathers who have been reading this blog to visit DDD. My son is coming up on 4 months old, so until he gets a little older we wont exactly be surfing together, but there are many of you out there who are experiencing raising you kids and I would love to hear from you and post the stories of your thoughts and experiences with your children. Thanks.

Danny

FCD Flickr

2009-01-02T09:54:00.000-08:00

Fletcher Chouinard has a great photo stream over at Flickr. Check it out.

Merry Christmas

2008-12-25T06:02:00.000-08:00

Christmas Wishes from Levi

2008-12-23T11:07:00.001-08:00

Levi wishes everyone a Merry Christmas

My Boy

2008-12-17T22:15:00.000-08:00

Ok so I said a while back I'd try not to turn this into a photo album, but how can I not post something this cute!?

Sense of Smell

2008-12-16T11:00:00.000-08:00

My senior year in high school I had a job at Holiday Inn working in the banquet service. I'd be there from right after school until sometimes three to four in the morning, watching drunk people do the macarena at weddings, corporate Christmas parties etc. I remember when I first started I was excited at the prospect of free food (loved food, still do!) from the surprisingly good kitchen. I commented on it my first day, and I've never forgotten what my supervisor said. Apparently, when you've worked in food service for a while, you actually get to the point where just the smell will satisfy you. Of course you still have to eat, but the additional temptation to eat more than neededf just goes away after a short time. I found this to be true, and even there I didn't last long at that job, that always stuck with me for some reason.

Being a new father, moving, and working a sales job in the current economy, time to get out in the water has been more than scarce for the last several months. I was on the road to work early one morning this last week and decided to take the scenic route up PCH from Newport to Huntington Beach, for the sole purpose of seeing if the smell of the ocean would help me through this long dry spell. I have to preface this with the fact that I didn't spend much time actually looking at the surf, not so much because I was driving, but that when I'm out of the water for a long period of time I just get frustrated seeing waves I can't ride.

Back to the experiment. I drove, windows down, several miles up, PCH, breathing in the fresh ocean air. For a moment I thought it would actually help, and really in a way it did. Part of the meditative benefit of surfing I believe is the the smell and sense off the ocean, and I got that. The only problem is that it still made me want more. Some surfers want more than just their local break, which has driven surf travel and exploration for decades. Part of being a "surfer" was the search for the next great wave, almost a constant limbo of being satisfied yet still yearning for more, knowing there was something more out there to experience. That's how I felt only in a sad, almost pathetic lesser degree. I am actually at the point where just being able to see the ocean, sense it and breathe in its aroma, makes me feel like I've reached that much more of a connection. I'm far from content with being out of the water for so long, but that's the thing about surfing, no other past-time (I don't' like to call it a sport) is so holistic in its experience. Maybe I'll write on that later.

Photo by Ryan Tatar

Grass is Greener Project

2008-12-07T09:18:00.000-08:00

I'm sure most of you reading this have already seen, liked and bookmarked the Grass Is Greener Project. Not only does the project boast a veritable who's who in the roots surfing/art/music movement of contributors, GiG is different from all our other suf blogs in that there are multiple daily posts, all quality.

Instead of having just one blogger making post whenever he or she has something worth posting (not always worth posting in my case) GiG is garanteed to have something good to read each and every time you visit. No offense to all you original surf-bloggers out there (jp), but I check that as often as I'm on surfysurfy!

If there was one surf blog on the web that could be a legit, standalone web site or even published magazine or periodical, this is it.

Kleenman & Mike

2008-12-03T11:09:00.000-08:00

San-O' Sunday

2008-12-02T13:04:00.000-08:00

Happy Thanksgiving!

2008-11-27T08:47:00.000-08:00

Levi wishes everyone a Happy Thanksgiving!

The only way to have true happiness is not getting what you want, its being thankful for what you already have.

Blue Stuff

2008-11-19T11:40:00.000-08:00

Lots of Blueish photos by Dan Tedeschi. Not only does he have a sweet first name, he takes some darn good photographs! Check out his web site here. Originally discovered at GIG.

Not a Soul in Sight

2008-11-15T14:47:00.000-08:00

Most surfers, especially those of us in climates where the elements are usually in our favor, take what we have for granted. I'm the first to admit it myself. We can just check the reports, toss our board and wetsuit (if needed) into our car and drive to a handy break, knowing what to expect. There's something extra needed to be a surfer in climates where we can't take advantage of all our modern conveniences to make the wave-hunt and easy one.

The day before, after a grievously cold boat trip through disordered winter seas, we'd arrived at our côte de Dieu: an uninhabited stretch of the Vancouver Island coast, with reef waves bombing all around us and not a soul in sight. The morning's sleet had eased, but cutting offshore winds were tearing at the swell as it stacked onto the reef, each wave trailing a banner of white against a grey sky. We'd motored out to surf a spot that Clay had discovered the year before, and we'd lucked into some of the heavier waves we'd seen all season: thick slabs of opaque ocean lunging onto the rocks, each one looking like some primordial and unfinished prototype of Oahu's Backdoor...

Rest of the story from Malcolm Johnson here

Its been a while...

2008-11-13T17:36:00.000-08:00

I've been absent from posting for a while (obviously!) due to work and family. I look forward to getting back up to speed soon.

Spirit of Surfing

2008-10-20T09:43:00.000-07:00

A great read at wetsand

A dear friend of mine once told me, “Surfing begins the minute you put the key in the ignition.” And it has taken me many years to realize not only how true this statement is but how easy to forget.

My personal overachiever tendency is to define surfing in terms of how many waves I catch, particularly great waves, and how well I do. I find that when I mentally restrict surfing to those criteria, my opportunities for a sense of joy, freedom, and peace, all the reasons I surf, are narrowed down to a few moments and to a rigid set of circumstances that I cannot totally control. Circumstances such as what the waves are like that day, how many people are out competing for the same waves, the wind, the swell, the tide, my own fatigue or distractibility. My sense joy is held captive by the smallness of my definition of what it means to surf....

Read the rest here

Quiver Envy and the Meaning of Life

2008-10-18T16:21:00.001-07:00

The more I look around, I'm beginning to realize that I am Quiver-poor. I see all these shiny, finny boards floating around the blogosphere. Photos like the one above (poached from surfysurfy) taunting me while I "make do" with 4 boards. I am very lucky in one aspect. My boards were gifted to me by either thoughtful people who gave out of their excess and kindness, or my pride and joy, the Pavel Speeddialer that my wife won for me at the San O Hawaiian Surf Club luau raffle a couple years ago.

One is a beautiful 7'0" Harbor single-fin that's actually not even mine, it belongs to a good friend who is living in Las Vegas, and lets me use it in his absence. My other two boards, a Ukulele Drifter was given to me by a customer of mine, while my shortboard was a beat-up extra owned by an old co-worker who is a OC bro who gets more boards given to him than he know what to do with.

My daily blog checklist taunts me on a daily basis, hanging tantalizingly sweet morsels of awesomeness in front of me through my computer's window. Showing me what is available, but not to me. Sure there are reasons that this could be my fault. I have priorities that keep the desired Hess shortboard, Grain log, Joe Bark paddleboard, Bonzer Bumblebees, misc. thumbs and hulls out of my reach that I could attain should I reorganize my spending pattern at the expense of my credit rating (and quite possibly my marriage!). Luckily all I have to do is go home to my wonderful family to know my priorities are in the right place. Turn on the TV and see the various clips in videos of beaming children in third-world countries perfectly happy surfing on discarded bits of plywood, or proud as can be of the patched-up discard left by a traveling surfer. This gives me a perspective into not just my surfing, but my life as a whole.

Surfing is a driving force in my life, something that helps me stay centered and focused through the fast-paced consumer-driven life all around me in Southern California. As I think about it though, while surfing is a driving force towards a better and more full life, it is not my life. this may seem sacrilegious to many, but it is true of me and I'm sure many other "normal" wave sliders out there. I still live the surfing "lifestyle" in some way, no matter if I'm in the water 1 day in a month or the good times where I'm able to go out several times in a week, or if I own one board or thirty.

The surfing lifestyle is a looking-glass into life, the good and the bad sides. While all of us desire nothing more than to be in the water, partaking in a plethora of surf-craft, we often have to sacrifice for those things that are intrinsically more important. Sacrifice is a dirty word in our modern society, instant gratification of our desires is seen as one of our inalienable rights. The way we keep ourselves truly centered and focused on what is important is not by how much of what we want we're able to attain, but instead being content in realizing how much we truly have. That little kid on the scrap of plywood probably lives a more true "surfing lifestyle" than any of us.

Out from under my rock (and Happy Belated B-Day!)

2008-10-08T12:15:00.000-07:00

Where have I been? I think I may be the last Surf-Blogger to find this great site. All surf blogs under one roof. Great idea and a new bookmark to check daily.

On another note, I just realized that Everyone Surfs just turned 1 year old three days ago! Thanks to everyone who visits! I hope that I'll be able to improve on my content over this next year, goal one though is to just surf more.

Levi

2008-10-01T16:13:00.001-07:00

To explain my extended absence from posting. Here is a picture of my beautiful wife and our firstborn son, Levi Tyrus Kimo Maynor! 8lb 4oz of fury and cuteness! I will do my best not to turn this into a baby photo-album but there's no guarantees...

Shaka!

2008-09-13T13:01:00.000-07:00

This never gets old no matter how many times I see it.

Drydocked for Good Cause

2008-09-09T22:22:00.000-07:00

I haven't been in the water since Sunday. Not this last Sunday, the one before that. I'm starting to go into withdrawal, I've got the shakes, the shivers, the heeby-jeebies. Ok its not that bad but I do miss being ion the water. I can't really complain, works been busy which is good for a salesman, plus I'm going to be a dad in a couple weeks so I have to prepare to take the time off then aka put in extra hours now. There will always be waves, there won't always be a first newborn baby boy!

Oldest Wahine

2008-08-28T10:14:00.000-07:00

Full Story on Wetsand

More intriguing than her lines of wisdom, which she wears beautifully, is the energy and might that this 81 year-old woman possesses.

It's not everyday you see a woman swinging a sledgehammer that equals more than half her body weight. In a stylish fashion, wearing a light blue bandana and pearl earrings, Eve Fletcher conquers the concrete slab that stands before her. Swinging her sledgehammer with flawless execution is the perfect metaphor to depict how Eve has approached life. With style and poise she achieved what we all strive for: the perfect balance of working hard and playing hard.

Next to the dismantled riprap that Eve loads into the trunk of her Subaru wagon lays her 9' single fin. Aside from her passion for gardening and landscaping she possesses another talent that very few participate in at her age. With five decades under her belt Fletcher maybe the world's most experienced female surfer. Staying true to her roots, just as she has for the last forty years, Eve makes the weekly journey from her eclectic yet modest Laguna Beach home to the line up at San Onofre where she is greeted with warm smiles and a well of respect....

I see her out at Sano Onofre a lot when I'm there and its hard to think of any other regulars who get the respect she does. I've never spoken with her except casual greetings in passing int he water. Always smiling and encouraging to all those around her in the water. I hope I'm able to continue surfing and being stoked into my 80s!

Shelter

2008-08-20T12:44:00.000-07:00

Maybe its because its the first surf video I bought, or the just first one that really struck a chord with me, this has always been my #1 favorite surf movie. Lots of good videos since then, but Shelter more than any other really sums up my feelings for the surfing lifestyle.

I haven't watched in it quite a while (I have it on VHS, no VCR) but every time I hear Mason Jennings, White Buffalo, even old southern soul style music this pops into my head. It just seems to have a very original and different feel to it. It just fits me and who I am in surfing. It also makes me want to move to a ramshackle farm house somewhere, anywhere thats country and close to waves.

Inner Kook

2008-08-12T11:15:00.001-07:00

I'm a kook. At least I'm starting to realize I have a significant amount of kook-ness in my person. It may not be a bad thing, but I've come to realize that after years of looking down on all the non-surf-brand companies that mooch off of our lifestyle, I'm jumping on the bandwagon. Who's to blame? My unborn son is the culprit here, I blame him.

Now don't get me wrong, I think Holister, American Eagle etc have been copying legitimate surf brands as the surfing lifestyle has become popular, they're not what I'm taking about. What I'm talking about is the Walmart, Target, and Big lots clothing emblazoned with "Surf Hawaii" and "Surf _______"(fill in the blank). Thankfully I've grown up and have gotten over the need to wear the "right" brand of clothing, but as I think about my son and prepare for his arrival, I can't help but buy things like the "Surfer Baby" sign in two posts previous and stickers like this for my cars.

I'm sure many of you are guilty of seeing stuff like this as kookish. I've always thought advertising "I surf" is a total Matthew McConaughyish thing to do. Having a kid on the way seems to have given me an outlet/excuse to buy all the cutesy surfer stuff with Hawaiian prints and surfboards on them.

Damian Fulton

2008-08-05T11:18:00.000-07:00

Surfline's portfolio series showcases influential and talented surf artists every month or so. The latest is Damian Fulton. His artwork illustrates the life of surfers in Southern California and particularly the aspect of being torn between the over-stimulated fast pace we are almost forced to follow just to get by.

"In my paintings, surfers compete with the barriers and ballyhoo that under any other circumstance would pummel a man into eventual submission, stifling his zeal, swallowing him up whole into lifes daily grind. The urban surfers are powerful, stoic figures, battling the elements, intrusions and vicissitudes of city life-My surfers brave all for the privilege of a saltwater baptism."

See his artwork here.

There's a lot of Surf artists that either just merge surfing experience with their fine art, and some who romanticize the art of surfing. Damian's paintings are a narrative of the surfing lifestyle most of us live on a day-to-day basis.

A couple of his pieces that 100% sum up the way I feel daily, one when I'm in the water and one when I'm out of the water.

"Left Behind"

"Epiphany on 4th and Broadway"

Sun, Sand, and Shoulder-Hoppers

2008-08-04T12:21:00.001-07:00

There are few better ways to spend a sunny Sunday morning than trunking it at San-O. Even better is that we got there at almost 10am expecting the normal 1-hour wait at the top and arrived to see only one car ahead of us! Fun waves, everyone in the water and out was smiling and having a good time. I think this is the one place where shoulder-hoppers are the norm, but there were small semi-clean waves for all so there were no worries and lots-o-fun.

On a side-note, does anyone out there have any experience going to a single-fin setup on tri-fin longboard? I want a more "Loggy" ride but can't see getting much of a log feel out of a 9'6" Ukelele Drifter. Baby on the way, no $$$ for a board so I need to make do with what I've got.

Levi's Photo Shoot

2008-07-31T10:06:00.001-07:00

Surfer Baby

2008-07-28T10:30:00.000-07:00

Due to being gone to North Carolina for 10 days this month, I haven't been in the water lately. When you work on 100% commission you have to put in the time and I have 10 days worth to make up! We did get to go to the Orange County Fair for a bit last night with the family.

"Get ready to spend your money!" my sister-in-law said when we got the the shop area. She walked me over to the Surfer Baby tent and I grabbed this sign before I was even all the way inside the tent! They have a ton of cool stuff, and I was lucky to leave with any cash still in my pocket.

All you parents check their store here, www.surferbaby.com

Surfer Dude?

2008-07-23T13:00:00.000-07:00

I Like YDD's take "I command you NOT to see this this film." Not just for the fact that it looks absolutely beyond stupid, but Matthew blantantly stole the name my wife and I picked out for our firstborn over 2 years ago! He personally financed this film and seems to be doing his best to destroy any positive reality associated with surfing. I think the surfers in Malibu went after the wrong people last month.

We (um, I) at everyonesurfs support the rights of all people to surf, but this is getting kind of ridiculous.

Is it just me or am I ranting a lot lately? I need to get in the water more and think happy thoughts.

Family Reunion

2008-07-22T10:45:00.001-07:00

For both of the folks who read this blog, you've noticed I've been "out of the office" for a couple weeks. I was back home in North Carolina for a family reunion. Hot, humid and fun. It was nice to see family I haven't seen in years and see the old hometown.

I got reaquainted with the local wildlife

We went to Wrightsville and I got to give surf lessons to some of the cousins. 82 degree water felt like heaven in spite of the fact that there were no waves. The lack of surf made it a lot easier for me to not ditch the kids and surf myself, I'm not much for teaching surfing, snowboarding is a lot easier for me to give lessons for some reason, I taught almost all the kids in this picture to snowboard a few years back and that was much easier process.

The knee-high waves on the outside were a little scary for this guy so he hung out in the ankle-high whitewater and kneeboarded. For all the NC locals, don't worry about any extra people in the lineup because of this lesson, they're all from the midwest. We might get a couple extra great lakes surfers from this though!

Payday

2008-07-08T10:45:00.001-07:00

Its amazing what you can find these days on the internet. I'm sure all you financially savy cats out there know public-owned companies report the buying and selling of stock, and apparently who's doing the buying and selling. This is a report I found for a former exec of Quiksilver. Not exaclty sure how it all works, but with my interpretation there's a $1.1 Million payday here. Not a bad days work!

The surf industry's come a looooong way from a bunch of beach bums just living life and having a good time.

Lightning-Bolt Purgatory

2008-07-07T10:59:00.000-07:00

From my trip to Coronado a couple weeks ago. I saw this poor Lightning Bolt wasting away in the Tommy Bahamas store. It says Gerry Lopez on it though I didn't get in-depth enough to see if he shaped it. It could be worse, this board could be in a Hollister store!

Happy Birthday USA!

2008-07-04T09:46:00.000-07:00

Rasta showing his patriotism

Baja Anyone?

2008-07-02T10:23:00.000-07:00

I live right by Oakley's headquarters and saw this yesterday. Conspicuous consumption/Awesomeness! I'd love to take this on a long Baja run, but I doubt its much use as a daily driver...

More Flip-Flop Danger

2008-07-01T09:20:00.000-07:00

Click here to learn more reasons the Big Flip-Flop industry is trying to kill us all.

Ashton Kutcher and ? (warning, really dumb rant)

2008-06-29T13:00:00.000-07:00

I want to know who to blame. I have realized that I am a trendsetter in disguise getting ripped off by the flippin mainstream fashionistas!

First it was the trucker hat. I've been wearing trucker hats religiously since I was about 3. First it was real trucker hats (my dad was a truck driver) then it moved on to 49ers hats, then Snowboard and surf companies. I decided I wanted an original John Deere hat back around 1996 I finally got one and a couple days later guess what... flippin Ashton Kutcher is there wearing a flippin John flippin Deere hat on TV! I think I got to wear it once, don't even know where it is now, I think I still have it but I'm not sure.

Fast forward to today, I've been a flannel man for years as well. I love plaid flannel shirts. I'm perusing Transworld Business at today and I see an interview with my old boss at Jacks Surf Shop. They're talking business and upcoming trends and what do I see?

“Flannel is big this year! [We’ve seen] a lot of flannels, a lot of hooded flannels..."

So now when I'm out wearing my 15 year-old flannel shirt (Eddie Bauer, they last forever!), people are just going to be looking at me saying, "yup everyones jumping on the flannel bandwagon"

Even Nike's jumping in

I want royalties or something...

For all of you who take these thing seriously... please don't.

New Green Transportation

2008-06-28T11:00:00.001-07:00

Finally! We've been waiting for the new clean diesels for a while and they're finally coming. EPA rates them at 29 city, 40 freeway, but unlike gas cars (including hybrids) diesels tend to get better than the rating if you drive it right. I talked with people who are averaging 50+ freeway! I beat the snot out of another demo around town and still averaged 33mpg. Its good to see some cars coming in that are good for the environment and still practical and fun to drive.

Greener-than-us Europe sells about 60% diesel cars so this is the way things are going. Unfortunatly VW only warranties up to B5 biodiesel, though you can fit it for up to B100. Still greener than a Hybrid once you factor in battery production & replacement.

Available in wagon form also for all the people and boards you could possibly want to throw in. They're not letting employees get them yet since availability is so low but when they are I'm probably going to be signing up!

http://www.goodcleandieselfun.com/

Surfers vs Papparazzi

2008-06-22T11:01:00.000-07:00

Just one more issue to deal with when everyone (movie stars) surf. Nobody likes Papparazzi(sp?) I think they're close to eclipsing lawyers and car salesmen as the least-liked proffession.

Around 12 photographers were on the beach in Malibu this afternoon trying to get shots of Matty hitting the surf, when an all-out smackdown was laid on the pappers by turf-protecting surfers....

Link Here

Flip-Flops Cause Cancer?

2008-06-14T13:13:00.001-07:00

Flip-flops linked to skin cancer

Most likely from the same genious minds that discovered that over-eating and lack of excersice leads to heart disease! DirtBag Dad Diaries has a report and interview on the subject.

Back in the OC

2008-06-11T16:21:00.001-07:00

I finally got out in the water for a good surf. Its been a long break but I was still able to catch a few fun ones. Definitely rusty, but I didn't get tired like I thought I would. I guess Yoga For Surfers helps! Its my first time surfing in OC, not counting SanO since last summer when I moved jobs to Carlsbad for a while. Fun waves, warm water, good times!

Book of Surfing

2008-06-10T09:27:00.000-07:00

From Shakas and Singlefins. A new book by the writer of The September project sure to spread stoke.

iBreadcrumbs

2008-06-05T17:28:00.001-07:00

On a non-surf-related note, a co-worker just went online with a super-useful research engine (not search, research) for any online research/shopping/etc. Its a toolbar that you install in your Firefox web browser that records your activiy when you activate it, like an online DVR. Lots of colleges are using it for research, but even if you're shopping or looking for basic info on something its way easier to use than bookmarking and you can see other people searches for similar things and feed off of and/or add onto their results. Pretty neat.

Check it out here...http://www.ibreadcrumbs.com/

New Project

2008-06-03T12:20:00.000-07:00

With the impending arrival of my firstborn Son I've started another blogging project, the Dirtbag Dad Diaries. Just me musing on my life as a father and my hopes for my son to grow up outdoors in front of nature as opposed to indoors in front of the TV like so many kids are growing up now.

I was blessed in my childhood to grow up with nature instead of TV, and books instead of the internet. I understand times have changed, but I'm going to be doing my best to ground my little boy in what really constitutes living. EveryoneSurfs will still be here and I'll continue posting, hopefully more frequently than I have been of late.

For all you Dad surf-bloggers out there please if you have any thoughts, comments, experiences etc, please email me (dnnymynr@aol.com) so I can have experienced fathers posts on the blog as well. I'd love for this to be sort of a community project.

Finally!

2008-06-02T10:33:00.000-07:00

Its been my longest stretch out of the water in recent memory but I've finally got a few waves! My lovely (and very pregnant) wife and I went to SanO and I was able to get a few fun ones. Out of shape lazy paddling, crowded and windy towards the end, but I would have been happy to just paddle around with no waves, just for the chance to be in the water.

Pics a new one from Shakas & Singlefins

Memorial

2008-05-27T10:58:00.001-07:00

Went out to my Wifes Aunts gravesite to put flowers Sunday.

Her aunts tradition was to go the the graveyard on Memorial day and "distribute" flowers so everyone laid to rest there had flowers on their grave. "Distributing" meant taking flowers from the graves with "too many" and puting them on the graves of those who had none. A very thoughtful yet not thought-out gesture. My wife and her sister continued the tradition, minus taking flowers from other people graves. We brought extras.

Jonesing

2008-05-24T09:25:00.001-07:00

I confess, I'm a poser. At least thats how I feel. Due to a job move I've been out of the water for almost a month. I've been busy, and things are going ok so I've been holding off the inevitable dry-dock bad attitude thus far. Plans for this weekend were to go to the beach with my Beautiful (my name for my wife) Sunday morning and just hang out, surf, have fun. Wetsand said bad surf and high winds, Surfline said bad surf and high winds, The weather channel and weatherbug said bad surf and high winds, onshore. With all this, I figured there's no extra loss in a change of plans so now we're not going to the beach on Sunday. Saturday is my normal surf day since my wife is still sleeping when I head out for work anyways so I just leave early, get a surf in and head to work. Of course, bad conditions so I didnt bother. Got to work a little early and decided to take a detour and look at the waves since the weather seemed kinda nice I wanted to see what it was like.

Chest-high, hardly any wind and fun looking! I'm officially crapped out surf-wise. I was almost ready to swim out and body surf in my work clothes! I can't take this much longer.

Its a Boy!

2008-05-16T09:46:00.000-07:00

Boy bits!

He's doing great and so's his Mommy

I am unbelievably stoked. I'm going to have a son. Anyone out there want to shape me a 6" speeddialer so I can start him on the road to fishy-ness?

Delay

2008-05-12T12:57:00.000-07:00

Sorry for the lack of posts. Things are rockin @ work and home so that means busy busy busy. I haven't even been in the water in 2 weeks. I'm holding off the evil-non-surfing twin thus far but I'm not sure if I'll last much longer. Need to get wet.

OC Aids Walk 2008

2008-05-02T12:47:00.000-07:00

Charity Request...

My Beautiful wife and I will be participating in the 2008 Aids Walk Orange County this next Saturday. If any folks out there want to donate to the fight against HIV/Aids, please click here. There's a lot of people out there who's lives have been turned upside-down by this disease and they can use our help. Thank you.

Moving to VW

2008-04-26T14:03:00.000-07:00

Wow, its been almost a year since I started Everyonesurfs, and now its moving North! I've moved from Ken Grody Ford in Carlsbad back to McKenna VW in Huntington Beach. I started selling cars here 6 years ago and its nice to come back. I'll miss the guys I worked with at Ford, but look forward to a future with VW. VW has great stuff going on, including some clean diesel technology that will be bio-diesel compatible!

I'm going to re-aquaint myself with my favorite spots in north OC, Newport, Bolsa, Cliffs. I'll definitely be out as much as possible once my schedule settles down!

Shark Attack in Solana Beach

2008-04-25T18:27:00.000-07:00

This morning after surfing in Oceanside my buddy noticed a police suv running up the beach. Turns out they were getting everyone out of the water because of the great white attack in Solana beach. One of my co-workers used to skin dive for lobsters with the victim and knew him very well. Our thoughts and prayers go out to his family and friends in this tragic time.

My wife already worries about me surfing in the mornings. Every morning when i kiss her goodby she says "Be careful, don't dive in headfirst and surf where there are other people." No she says she's adding "And dont sit with your feet in the water for sharks to bite." No matter how slim the chances, she still worries. I guess it means she loves me.

Non-surfers read!

2008-04-24T15:28:00.000-07:00

From Transworld...

"Russell Brand has vowed never to surf again.

The comedian tried his luck on the waves recently while in Hawaii promoting his new film Forgetting Sarah Marshall.

But Russell, 32, says the experience was far from what he expected.

'I looked ridiculous,' he tells Hello! 'It was like watching a cow smoking a pipe.

'I was so frightened. You look at the ocean and think: "Right, let's stand on that." But walking on water is bizarre and macabre.' "

Halleluia! One less actor on the gidget craze!

Earth Day 2008

2008-04-21T15:55:00.001-07:00

"This grand show is eternal. It is always sunrise somewhere; the dew is never all dried at once; a shower is forever falling; vapor is ever rising. Eternal sunrise, eternal sunset, eternal dawn and gloaming, on sea and continents and islands, each in its turn, as the round earth rolls."

With all the doom and gloom about the environment over the last few years, I found this quote by John Muir to be very encouraging.

Sunny Sunday

2008-04-14T10:24:00.000-07:00

Yesterday my beautiful pregnant wife and I went ot the beach to enjoy the perfect weather and small clean waves. A 45 minute wait to get into the parking area was well worth it. I broke out the longboard for some super-fun small wave shredding, well maybe not shredding but cruising is a good word. She hung out on the beach and read pregnancy books and I surfed until the rocks decided they didn't like my feet and took a nice chunk out of me. There was a guy out wearing booties and all I did was think about making fun of him for wearing booties on such a warm day and I got godsmacked for it. I apologise to the surf gods and mr bootie wearing guy, and also to the girl I snaked the wave from, I thought you going going left not right. I'm a kook.

My beautiful Hawaiian princess in full sun gear

Cruising, the guy behind me was trying to take off fin-forward. I did that once a couple years ago and the fin caught and wrenched my bad shoulder badly enough that I never want to try that again.

After I got my due for making fun of the guy in booties I sat on the beach and watched for a while.

Sign of Things to Come

2008-04-12T10:07:00.001-07:00

My wife and I are watching our 8-month old niece Kaila for the weekend so her parents can get some much-needed time together. Apparently her wake-up time is 5am sharp every day, which is fine considering thats when I like to get up anyways. The issue is thats when I like to get up so I can get a short surf before I have to be at work. My wife is not a morning person, and she works to hard for me to make her stay up with the baby while I bail to go surfing. We had a nice morning, took the dogs for a walk with Kaila and she went back to sleep at 8, right when I leave to go to work.

We're expecting our baby in October (stoked!) and this is good practice. Here's my quandry: Currently I can get in the water 1-2 days a week before work, when I have to leave to be at work before my lovely wife gets up anyways, no time together missed. When we have the baby, she'll be staying home, but will still be plenty tired if she has to get up super early every morning and then have to watch the baby all day as well. I have three options if I want to get in the water when our baby comes along. I won't compromise my limited family time to surf no matter how much surfing means to me, so I have to explore other ways to get my surf on. Here are my options.

1. I'll have a nice sit-down with the Munchkin (our baby's name until we find out if we're having a Levi or a Serena) and we'll work out a nice compromised schedule where he/she can agree to wake up no later than 4am and be back to sleep by 5. Or wake up no earlier than 8am.

2. I start my own business (in the works) and do well enough that I can make my own schedule and surf whenever I want during the day. (My current job is sales so I have to be in the office all day, thus lunchtime surf breaks and leaving early to catch an evening session are not options for me.)

3. Win the lottery, buy a house on the beach and do whatever the heck we want, whenever we want.

These are the 3 options I've come up with so far. Any other ideas from you more experienced wave-riding dads?

Playing with my new Camera

2008-04-07T09:55:00.000-07:00

Suit, Tie, and Wetsuit

2008-04-05T11:05:00.000-07:00

The Office, the wetsuit is hanging up outside

I had a customer the other day who noticed the surfboard in my office and mentioned what he thought was a funny story. He'd been at his beach house here in Carlsbad and had seen a surfer come runnning out of the water, quickly rinse off, throw on a shirt and tie, and drive away. My customer didn't surf himself, and though it was rather amusing that a surfer would have a shirt and tie sort of job. I almost thought he'd seen me, but I was at a different spot that morning. Southern California is one of the few spots, though they are growing, where a large portion of the professional white-collar work force actually surfs. Seriously or not, it does seem that everyone really does surf in some way here. Many people still think of surfers as beach bums and kids like its the 60's. I never thought I was the only one who did quick 2wavesandout sessions before work, but in the 6 years I've been here and even more often now that I have a family and mortage to worry about I've been the only one I see running out of the water as fast as I ran to it. Usually since I made myself late by waiting for that one more good wave to ride to the beach.

Molly

2008-04-01T21:44:00.000-07:00

Molly approves of me going surfing on my day off but she's not happy about the lack of attention.

Pictures will be taken!

2008-03-31T11:19:00.000-07:00

Due to my previous cameras untimely demise at Disneyland, I gathered up my pennies that I'd been saving for the last couple years and bough myself this beautiful little picture-taker! I'm not much of a photographer, but I'm going to be taking lots of pictures!

Craigslist Find

2008-03-29T14:53:00.000-07:00

As a salesman, I like selling something I like and/or would want to own myself. I could say that if I were this guy, I'd enjoy selling this little disc, but if I already had it would I want to part with it for only $300?

Click here

"5'10" x 18 x 22 x 16 x 2 3/4 single fin disc Dark blue resin tint bottom and rails, yellow pinline, clear deck by Moonlight Glassing.

Excellent condition, comes with fin Shaped by Erik Olsen 'EHO' locally"

Saturday Morning

2008-03-29T10:20:00.001-07:00

It feels like winning the jackpot when you get a good parking spot at SanO on a saturday morning. I had one of my two-waves-and-out pre-work sessions that have become the norm for me since becoming and adult(loosely speaking) with a family, mortage, and car payments etc. Its been a long dry winter, watching everyone else get the best swells of the year, but even just a quick session makes everything so much better. My two wave quota was well worth the time, got a couple great rides on my Pavel, sneaking wide-swinging set waves inside all the longboarders. Probably the best rides I've had since last summer.

No pics as my camera was a casualty of a big family Disneyland trip last month, but there were some beautiful waves coming in. I even saw a few midget-sized barrels on the inside! Beautiful day, now back to work...

Future-Surfer

2008-03-25T09:51:00.000-07:00

2000!

2008-03-24T10:12:00.000-07:00

I'm over 2000 hits! Thanks to everyone who finds what I have to say worthwhile. There aare a ton of great surf blogs out there so its nice to be getting some traffic. Here's a list of my favorite bloggers that are much better than me!

SurfySurfy the original surf blog/drool inducer

Shakas and Singlefins the pic on this post is from him

70percent Just good stuff

Born to Lose surfing/shaping/family

Brownfish garage shaper/dad/surfer

KYScoast is able to use words when most of us need a picture

Headhighglassy a shaper with a story behind each board

Check out all the destinations to your right!

XXL

2008-03-22T09:36:00.000-07:00

I've never really gotten into the big wave fever thats been going on over the last several years. Maybe I'm just not a charger myself so I havent developed a huge interest in it. Kind of like watching Nascar, if you're not there or if you havent done it yourself you just can't get into it. (not to insult big wave riders by comparing them to nascar). Its pretty amazing to see the progression though, airs off boils in the wave face, Shane Dorians layback in a quadruple-overhead Teahupoo freight train barrell. For a long time surffers just survived waves like these, now they're toying with them.

One thing that kinda freaks me out, Ian Walshs wave, whos that screaming in the background? Kinda scary, like Pat O' in Endless Summer 2, only on crack. Kinda scary.

Chuck Lorre #40

2008-03-20T09:59:00.000-07:00

Dave

A couple of my wifey's and my favorite tv shows are Two & a half Men, and the Big Bang Theory. They're created by Chuck Lorre (who also did Dharma & Greg and others) At the end of every episode there's a "vanity card" just random musings and stuff. Since we got the greatest invention since the internet (Tivo) we can pause it and read the card. The one last night was great so I looked it up on his website...

Once upon a time there was a wave. The name of the wave was, no surprise, Dave. Dave the wave. Dave was a big, powerful wave. His massive blue body surged across the surface of the ocean with great majesty and deceptive speed. Oh yes, Dave was quite a wave. From the moment he rose up from the ocean he felt special. He felt invincible. Ferocious storms battered him with wind and rain, great ships sliced through his very heart, and yet he rolled on. It was not for him to stop and consider the other waves. To stop was to die. Waves have to keep moving... or else. But then one day Dave saw a strange darkness on the horizon and, for the first time in his life, felt fear. What could it be? Was it connected to the laughing creature sliding across his face on a piece of wood? But before he could make sense of it all, he crashed down into the darkness. For a brief moment he felt a weird, splashing feeling, then oblivion. Dave was no more. He was now a part of the sea. And as we all know, the sea loves to make waves.

Back and badder than ever! (Warning Rant)

2008-03-13T16:13:00.000-07:00

Yeah! Ok, maybe not badder than Michael Jackson (back in the day) but back nonetheless. Its been a rough couple months but I finally got out in the water yesterday. Longboarding to get my paddling muscles used to this strange motion they can't seem to remember. Caught a few fun waves at San-O and didn't look like a complete idiot so I'll call it a succesful session.

One thing did get me in a big way though. I was pulling out of the parking lot and a big red Dodge truck pulled out behind me. I made sure to move a little faster than normal coming out of the dirt where the bumps are, my car doesnt handle them well so I usually go really slow. I figured it'd be nice of me to make sure I didn't hold up the fellow surfer in the big red Dodge truck with San Onofre Surf Club license frames. Why am I going into such detail with describing his truck? Thats the only way I know him, and if any folks out there know who I'm talking about you can mention this post to him. Why do I care? He followed me out the the freeway as he was going up towards Orange County also. We barely get into traffic, he sticks his hand out of the window, cuts me off, and then for my troubles flips me off and speeds away! I've never used this blog to rant about anything or anyone, but this really bothered me.

You, mister big red Dodge dually with SanO surf club license plate frames, are everything thats wrong with surfing. Anytime, especially after I've been out in the water and I have a board sticking out the back of my car, make a point to be polite to my fellow wave-riders. Even if its a simple nod as you drive by. I moved here from North Carolina, where if you surf, snowboard, or skateboard theres an inherant comraderie among strangers becuase its a small community. Even when I moved to California, I've always expected surfers to treat one another with respect beyond that of normal politeness, as brothers and sisters who have the same values of common curtesy. Mr Red Dodge truck is an example of how mass-market lifestyle surfers have had a corrupting influence on our past-time. The lack of respect for someone who just pulled out of the same surf break as you is pretty low. Almost spoiled my session, almost.

There, I'm finished with my rant. Sorry for all innocents that had to put up with it. I know its pretty bad to have my first post after being gone so long have such a negative ring to it. And to Mr big red Dodge truck with SanO surf club license plate frames, please feel free to comment. Maybe you just have a bad habit of gesturing with your middle finger and that wasn't aimed at me. Let me know, I'm not to proud to retract my statement if your not to proud to comment.

Respect

Its been a while

2008-02-12T13:30:00.000-08:00

Its been a while since I was able to post. Its been a rough time lately between work and there being a death in the family. There's a light at the end of the tunnel though so I hope to be back posting soon! Thanks for sticking with it.

Danny

Vote!

2008-02-05T10:18:00.000-08:00

I'm going to be a Dad!

2008-01-29T11:20:00.000-08:00

Yep! My Beautiful wife surprised me this weekend standing under a ceiling full of blue and pink ballooons! We're going to have a beautiful hawaiian/native american future soul-surfer around Oct 1st!

Real Waterman

2008-01-29T10:31:00.001-08:00

Story here, originally from wetsand.

The term "Waterman" is really getting thrown around a lot lately, especially in non-establishment surf mags like Water and Surfers Journal. There's a few real waterman in the surfing world, Joe Bark is real, several Hawaiians, Laird Hamilton would have to be legit in spite of his helping start the SUP craze. How many surfers do we know that wouldn't think twice about reaching into a 9'+ mako shark to help pull a guys leg out?

I'm sure most of you have watched shows like "Deadliest Catch". When I see that and stories like this, it gives me a whole new meaning of what a true waterman is. We normally think of someone who surfs, tows, and paddles. What about the men and women who's lives are 100% in tune with the ocean, both physically, emotionally, and economically? Laird might reach into a sharks mouth to save someone else, but would he jump in a big boat and go haul in crab pots in sub-zero temperatures and 40ft swells?

Its Been a Long Time...

2008-01-26T10:49:00.000-08:00

I haven't been in the water in weeks, which really struck home when I took a quick detour past the beach on my way to work. Some lucky guy pulling into a perfect little head-high barrel. Its slow season at work, which in sales means you work twice as much and twice as hard for the same results. One more month and business will start picking up! I hope the waves stay good.

One a brighter note, my job does lead to meeting some cool people. I was lucky to be able to help out a couple good guys last week, here some picks of them from Reef's website.

The Governator Strikes again

2008-01-18T10:41:00.000-08:00

Our governor has announced his support of the 241 toll road extension through San Onofre State Park. This coming right behind his plan to close many other state parks. I'm not so much an environmentalist as I am a conservationist, this is a shame. I would be one of the main benefactors of the toll road extension, I live right where the current 241 ends and drive to Carlsbad every day for work, it would save me about 20 minutes every day, and about $5 in gas every day. I almost never have a situation with traffic, why do we need another toll road?

1000 Hits!!!

2008-01-15T14:46:00.000-08:00

I just realized I've had 1000 hits now! Thanks to everyone whos takes time out of their otherwise worthwhile day to look at my blog. Hopefully its worth it.

Irresponsible Politics

2008-01-15T09:52:00.000-08:00

Our Governor is trying to balance the budget by closing some of our parks, and reducing life guard coverage at many beaches, including a couple of my favorite and most-used surf spots. With the over-developement of Southern California, every park and protected area we can get away to, away from the concrete and car exhaust, is worth far more than the almost insignificant $13 million in reported savings. I hope they dont increase the price for the annual passes also. When I moved here 6 years ago, it was about $30, now is what, $120? I can understand the need to reduce spending, but theres a lot of other places that need cuts that will save a significant amount of money compared to this.

More info here

Edit: I was reading Warbles and got to thinking. As long as they dont cut off all access, that would be pretty nice! I can walk accross the sand without watching for broken glass and other trash left over from the crowds! Fewer pasty-white tourists to dodge. Dare I hope that the surf schools will go away too? looks like the beaches will all stay open though, just with fewer lifeguards.

Sliding Liberia

2008-01-09T10:00:00.000-08:00

Sliding Liberia is a movie coming soon documenting a trip through war-torn Liberia. With Dan Malloy, and cinematography by the man behind two of my favorite all-time films Shelter and Brokedown Melody, this is sure to be a surf film with far more substance than most films the "industry" produces. Read about it at The Cleanest Line.

Tubus-Eternus Art

2008-01-07T16:02:00.000-08:00

Having a fine art degree not only explains why I sell cars to pay the bills now, but also why I love browsing surfer/artist blogs. Going through surfysurfys links led me to Tubus-Eternus. I really like the basic black and white art. I can't understand a word he says but the artwork and photos are great.

(living in SoCal, the last one is my favorite)

New Year, New Direction

2008-01-05T10:49:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year! I've been absent due to visiting family for the last couple weeks. My time away from work and blogging has given me time to think about why I blog and what I blog about. If you've seen my first post, my original goal was to say something meaningful about the state of surf culture. I wanted to make an attempt at least to some journalistic quality. It sort of evolved into a daily, "hey this is cool!" posting for the sake of posting, not because I had something worthwhile to put up.

For Christmas I got "Let My People Go Surfing" by Yvon Chouinard, the founder and owner if Patagonia. Throughout the book, there's an emphasis of quality as opposed to quantity, meaning vs volume. As I've read I've realized in my little microcosm of the world-wide-web isn't really doing anything that inspires action or thought beyond the next I'm-bored-at-work-and-surfing-the-internet mouse click. I'm not trying to be a professional journalist, I just want Everyone Surfs to be a destination for people to come to where they get something out of their time here.

I enjoy posting little nonsense posts, but I want this to be a little more meaningful than the latest funny YouTube clip. This year I'm going to try (emphasis on try) to post less often but post something that will stick with readers beyond the next keystroke. Hopefully Everyone Surfs 2.0 will be a destination that anyone, wave-slider or not, can read and leave with a greater sense of what Surfing really is, why we do it, and what it means to truly be a Surfer.

I hope I'm not biting off more than I can chew!

Edit: I'm not going to get all serious or anything, I just looked back at my last couple months of posts and though "this is the best I can write down?"

Merry Christmas!

2007-12-24T12:28:00.000-08:00

Merry Christmas from Rasta and everyone else, wait, thats just me, at everyone surfs.

My Wave

2007-12-21T14:43:00.000-08:00

A top ten Youtube video for me. Click here

For some reason this makes me think of Doc from Surf In Oregon

Happy Hollow Days

2007-12-21T14:26:00.000-08:00

Originaly seen on 70percent

I used to be an artist...

2007-12-21T13:13:00.000-08:00

I was wondering through my old photobucket account and found some of my college artwork. There was a time I was going to be an artist/designer.

My Current Top 3

2007-12-17T10:13:00.000-08:00

Taken from 70Percent, via Pinniped....

(Surf) Web Places to Check Every Day
1) Surfy Surfy
2) 7oPercent
3) Wetsand

Top 3 Surf tools
1) 6'2" Pavel Speeddialer
2) '69" Ukelele Drifter
3) 7'2" Harbor 70's gun

Places I wish were my local shop
1) Mollusk
2) The Greenroom
3) Wetsand

Things to watch on-line right now
1) Surfline North Shore Slideshows
2) YouTube
3) Joe Cartoon

Surf films I can’t Wait to see
1) Morning of the Earth
2) Displacement
3) Singlefin Yellow
4) Whatever Patagonia is going to do in the future.....Please?

People I would love have shape me a board
1) Danny Hess
2) Rich Pavel (again)
3) Malcom Campbell
4) Grain

Surfers Artisist of inspiration
1) Tyler Warren
2) Pinniped
3) Joe Curren

Concert

2007-12-13T16:29:00.000-08:00

Not much surf action for me lately, but my rockin' wife got us tickets to the Alice in Chains and Velvet Revolver concert in LA last night! Loud fun.

Alice in Chains

Slash Rockin'

Scott Wyland on the megaphone

Velvet Revolver

and a calmer, gentler VR

Tom Wegener

2007-12-12T10:39:00.000-08:00

Originally seen on the brownfish This is real surfing, both the action and the lifestyle. I admire Tom for going from a LA lawyer to surfboard builder. So many people get caught up in life and arent willing to make sacrifices financially to improve the quality of the life they're living.

Po-Po ruined my surf!

2007-12-05T17:22:00.000-08:00

My self-hating thing to do when the surf is good is to pull off the freeway at Trestles when I'm on my way into work. I sit, take a pic or two, and in general envy everyone in the water and imagine how I would have surfed their last wave.

Today there's a highway patrolman sitting there, I figure its the shoulder and theres no biggie just taking a quick look. He thought otherwise and got on his loudspeaker "Either move now, or get a ticket!" So much for my non-session! (pic stolen from surfline photo gallery)

San O Style

2007-11-29T12:37:00.000-08:00

The hair makes the style. This is a couple days back when I took my longboard out. Ripples are no match for 9'6" of foam!

North Shore

2007-11-21T10:27:00.000-08:00

Oh to be on the North Shore of Hawaii right now. While we're getting up early and rushing to work, there's people strolling around in sunlit paradise in boardshorts and flipflops (slippahs). I went to the Big Island with my wife and her family last summer and refused to wear anything else, even though the sun never came out the entire week we were there.

Anther legend I never knew

2007-11-16T17:51:00.000-08:00

Joseph Corbett "Corb" Donohue, Jr. passed to his "great reward" with his family by his side on October 5, 2007, after a 2-year battle with lymphoma. Corb was born in New York City on February 10, 1941, to Mary and Joseph Corbett Donohue, Sr. The family eventually moved to California and found their way to Santa Monica Canyon by the time Corb was 6 years old. He discovered surfing ....... http://www.surfline.com/surfnews/article.cfm?id=12327

I'll be 100% honest. I didn't know anything about mr. Donohue until I read this just now. I surf, I'm passionate about surfing, I may have even said hello to him in the water at San-O in the past, but I'm far from being entrenched in the upper echelons of Southern California surf culture. It seems discouraging that so many of the people that are our greatest living assets as surfers are dwindling. These are the pioneers that made what we all take for granted possible and like the rest of the 99% of the surfing community, I know nothing about them. Sure I read the Surfers Journal religiously, I've memorized Endless Summer and whatever other classic movies I can get my hands on, but I've never personally experienced what originaly made surfing the primal, man-with-nature experience that is just pre-packaged and fed to us now.

Very few of my generation/class of surfers really know, much less care about the past. We don't even want to imagine surfing without a wetsuit or leash (I swear I don't wear a rope when I'm on my longboard, unless its kinda big). What these surfers, Doc Ball, Corb, Velzy experienced is something incredible that is really impossible for us now. We're turning a generational corner in the surf industry, I almost wish it was making a U-turn, just so I could experience a little of what the pioneers got to.

Wetsand Surf Shop

2007-11-15T10:05:00.000-08:00

Wetsand opened their retail store in Ventura. Now they need one a little further south.

Not a whole lot going on

2007-11-15T09:55:00.000-08:00

I went out Monday morning and got a few fun, choppy waves at San-O. I actually took my longboard out this time. I havent ridden it in months, ever since I got my fish. Its amazing how easy it is to catch waves on now! I've completely forgotten how to walk though.

Its kinda frustrating to be driving to work and seeing people with surfboards everywhere and I'm getting out once or twice a week. I just have to remind myself that maybe thats what they think of me on the days I'm heading to the beach and they're going to work......

Surf Dads

2007-11-09T10:16:00.001-08:00

Went to a popular spot in San Clemente this morning. There were fun waves had by all, I'm starting to figure out my fish. God bless south swell lefts!
I've never really seen it before, soccer moms have been replaced by surf dads. Looks like everyone wants to groom their kids to be the next AI or Slater. I saw one dad with a notepad, camera, and video camera! Surfing isn't really the romaticized easy-going lifestyle sport it used to be.

Chariot de la surf

2007-11-07T11:46:00.001-08:00

My ride to the waves. The Pavel fits like a glove.

A little clip heading out for dawn patrol.

Surfs Up!

2007-11-03T16:02:00.000-07:00

For all you who haven't seen this movie yet, watch it! This is the best surf movie ever made. Better than North Shore and Big Wednesday out together! I'll probably have it memorized soon. Chicken Joe's the man.

Mindsurfing for the 9-5 Part 5

2007-11-02T11:26:00.000-07:00

Just imagine you just came in after a good surf, relaxing on the beach with a beer and friends...

This actually looks a little scary

Watch me shred!

2007-11-01T20:39:00.000-07:00

Shreddin!!!!! This is a cool thing on photobucket where you can make yourself.

Mindsurfing for the 9-5 Part 4

2007-10-29T14:16:00.001-07:00

Black n' White Pipe
Black n' White Blacks

Mindsurfing for the 9-5 Part 3

2007-10-27T09:18:00.000-07:00

Back to the mindsurfing! Its the last few days of the month so its time to grind out some sales at work.

Peaky Beach-Breaky goodness

Mmmmmm

Missed it

2007-10-26T18:02:00.001-07:00

I pretty much missed it this last week. I got out for a while Sunday and Tuesday, but no barrels. Picture stolen from here.

SoCal Burning and Firing

2007-10-23T09:40:00.001-07:00

Its kinda hard to be as stoked about conditions like this....

When its caused the the same conditions causing this.

Priorities

2007-10-22T18:37:00.001-07:00

Only two? Actually one more in the bed and the Pavel in the Jeep in front

One guy, five boards, excelent priorities